Wood Stove Inserts

If you are still debating on whether you should upgrade your traditional fireplace to one of the many wood stove inserts, then keep reading.  You will see that the newer models offer many benefits.

Wood stove inserts are usually made from cast iron or plate steel and have glass doors to allow you to enjoy watching the flames.

Today, many models and styles are available. So, it is very easy to find one that matches your personal tastes and home decor.

Choices can include models that protrude onto the hearth.  The additional surface area of the insert provides more radiant heat.

Adding a blower or a fan allows for more evenly distributed heating.  You may find that the heat will actually reach more areas of you home, reducing the amount of other fuels required to heat your home.

Additional benefits achieved by upgrading your open fireplace are numerous.

Here are just a few of the advantages.

1.  Improved efficiency

The closed-door system of the wood stove inserts prevent the drawing in of already heated air from the room.  The fire then burns slower and hotter, and combustion is more complete.

2.  Ambiance

You still have the smell and sounds of a real fire burning in your room.

3.  Cleaning

The wood insert stoves are much easier to clean than your fireplace.  The bottom surface is flat.  Simply sweep out the ashes, when cool of course!

4.  Safer to use

The chance of fire damage from sparks is greatly reduced.  And the chance of fire damage resulting from creosote build-up is virtually eliminated.  Because the fire burns so much hotter in the wood insert stoves, creosote does not get a chance to build up.

5.  Save on heating costs

Because you are burning wood more efficiently, less wood is burned to get the same amount of heat.

6.  More independence from local utility companies.

The newer wood stove inserts are vastly improved and much more efficient.  That means you have to buy less energy from your local utility.

7.  Eco-friendly

An EPA-certified insert can reduce the emissions to nearly zero, making the wood stove inserts more eco-friendly than a traditional fireplace.

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Warm weather may finally be here. That means you won’t be burning your wood stove inserts much more until the fall. No more shoveling ashes out of the stove and into the metal bucket. But, before you think you are done for the year, remember you still have to complete some seasonal maintenance.

Some of the cleaning and maintenance is specific to your wood burning fireplace insert. Other things are necessary for anyone who uses their wood stove inserts all season. Check your owner’s manual.

At a minimum, complete the following maintenace items in order to keep your wood stove at peak performance. Your wood stove will last much longer if you keep it clean.

1.   Clean the chimney.

You can hire a local chimney sweep to do this for you. A local contractor may also offer a package deal to you – clean the chimney and your wood stove insert. If this is your first year burning wood, you may want to hire a professional. Watch how they clean the chimney and stove. Maybe you can do it the following year.

2.   Clean your stove thoroughly.

Before you clean the glass in the door, make sure the stove is completely cooled off. If you have creosote/soot on the glass, you can purchase a ceramic glass cleaner. Some people use a vinegar and water solution.

3.   Clean the fan blower if one is present.

4.   Check your stove for worn or loose parts, such as bolts, etc. Replace worn gaskets.

5.   Touch up any chipped paint if necessary.

Check the manual that came with your wood stove insert. The manufacturers sometimes have specific things that are required  in order to keep your wood stove operating at its peak performance.

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Keeping your wood stove insert properly maintained is the key to a long-lasting, efficiently burning wood stove.  Periodically, you want to do a physical inspection of the various parts.  Doing this will ensure a long life for your wood stove, and many years of contentment as you watch others continue to pay high utility bills.

What You Should DO to Keep Non-catalytic Wood Stove Inserts Properly Maintained:

• DO check all gaskets annually. Repair or replace frayed,
  warped, or worn material. Broken glass (if your stove has
  glass windows) should be replaced immediately. Hints: One
  way to test the tightness of a gasket seal is to close the
  door on a dollar bill. Pull gently on the dollar bill. If
  it pulls easily out of place, the seal isn’t tight and the
  gasket should be replaced. Repeat this test in several
  locations to check the seal all around the door.

Gaskets and glass windows in good condition will
provide an airtight seal and prevent leaks. Leaks will
reduce your stove’s efficiency and may create indoor air
pollution problems.

• DO check seams on cast iron stoves annually. Re-cement as
  necessary.

As will gaskets, seams are areas where leaks can
develop.

• DO check the wood-loading door and the ash drawer for
  tightness; adjust as necessary.

These two areas are subject to warp or worn
gaskets. Poor fit may result in over-heating or may allow
smoke to escape into the room.

• DO check air controls to make sure that parts move freely.

Pieces of bark, ash, or charred wood may become
lodged in the sliding mechanisms. Exact amounts of
combustion air are essential for your non-catalytic stove
to achieve high efficiency and reduce pollution.

• DO check the secondary air holes for plugging; clean with a
  wire brush as necessary. Each week operate the stove in a
  “hot” mode for 30 to 45 minutes.

Nozzles and secondary air holes must remain
unclogged to maintain combustion airflow. When these become
clogged, secondary combustion won’t occur. Hot fires will
burn off the accumulated creosote that brushing can’t
remove.

• DO consult your owner’s manual for other periodic
  inspection tips on how to replace worn and broken parts.
  Replace firebrick and other insulating materials when you
  see crumbling or other signs of deterioration.

Failing to replace a part will cost you more in
the long run. For all models, parts should be available
from the dealer.

• DO check the baffle of your stove for warpage. Contact the
  manufacturer if this occurs.

The airflow within your stove will be distorted if
the baffle is warped. This condition can be corrected by
replacing the baffle.

• DO check the flue twice a month and have it cleaned at
  least once a year. After cleaning, check the seals and retighten
  joints in the flue and to the stove.

Buildup of creosote on the flue walls can reignite
and cause fires. Tight seals and joints prevent
leaks.

• DO make sure the thermostat (if your stove is equipped with
  one) is working properly; replace as necessary. Refer to
  parts list in your owner’s manual.

A broken thermostat can prevent air inlets and
dampers from opening or closing automatically.

What You Should NOT DO to Keep Non-catalytic Wood Stove Inserts Properly Maintained:

• DO NOT remove or tamper with the preset operating or
  temperature controls.

It’s against the law, it will void your stove’s
warranty, and it will create a safety hazard. The stove
will be less efficient and more expensive to operate.
Thermostats control either primary or secondary air, or
both. Tampering may ruin the precisely designed secondary
combustion capabilities, resulting in lower efficiencies,
higher operating costs, and greater pollution.

Operating Non-Catalytic Wood Stove Inserts offers tips on day to day operation of wood stove inserts.

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Using a wood stove insert can reduce your home heating bills. When you finally get it installed, you are anxious to get it fired up.  But make sure you operate your wood stove properly. You don’t want a house full of smoke, and you certainly do not want a chimney fire.

Follow the procedures below to operate wood stove inserts for
maximum efficiency and minimum pollution.

What makes a new non-catalytic wood stove burn efficiently and cleanly is “secondary combustion”-a feature that differentiates the
new stoves from the older models.

In new non-catalytic wood stoves inserts, the usual combustion process in augmented by a second area of combustion that burns off the smoke before
it exits through the flue. In some stoves, the fire of secondary combustion is visible near the air inlets in the secondary combustion zone (it looks like a little jet of  flame coming out of the inlets), and is called “light-off.”

What You Should DO When Operating Non-catalytic Wood Stove Inserts:

• DO burn only dry, well-seasoned wood, not wet or freshly
  cut wood. Season wood at least six months; store outdoors,
  loosely covered, to allow air to circulate freely through
  the pile.

“Green” or wet wood releases less heat because
energy from the fire must first evaporate the moisture
before producing useful heat.

• DO build and maintain moderately hot fires quickly after
  loading the wood. Burn a new load at a higher air setting
  for about 5 to 15 minutes and then turn down the air supply
  to the desired setting. When adding new wood, the dampers
  should be opened to supply air directly to the wood and to
  the flames leaving the wood.

Enough air must be supplied to completely burn the
gases and resins from the wood. The rate at which the wood
burns is related to the amount of air supplied to the wood.
If there’s not enough air, the wood will not burn
completely. high temperatures are necessary to achieve the
secondary combustion that non-catalytic stoves rely on to
reduce pollution and improve efficiency.

• DO use many small or split pieces of wood rather that a few
  large pieces.

Small or split pieces (e.g., 2- to 5-inch
diameter) ignite more quickly and create the hot fires that
non-catalytic stoves require.

• DO pay special attention to the instructions for using the
  secondary air controls. In some models, you can observe the
  secondary air inlets through the glass door to confirm that
  the inlets light-off.

Non-catalytic stoves require secondary combustion
to burn cleanly and efficiently.

• DO burn moderate to full loads of wood that will provide
  several hours of uninterrupted burning and minimize door
  openings.

Minimizing door openings keeps the burn
temperature high and sustains secondary combustion.
Frequent door openings increase pollution both inside and
outside your home.

• DO operate the stove’s internal fans (if your stove has
  them) in strict accordance with the operating instructions.
  Some manufacturers recommend leaving the fans turned off
  for 30 minutes after start-up and refueling, and setting
  them on low for small fires.

Fans remove heat from the fire; cooler fires
result in more pollution.

• DO reload the stove when the charcoal bed burns down to a
  3- to 4-inch depth. De- ash the bed by stirring but don’t
  break up the charcoal or compress the bed.

Heat from the charcoal will ignite the new fuel
and help keep the temperatures high. Larger pieces of
charcoal let air circulate and help the fire revive
quickly.

What You Should NOT Do When Operating Non-catalytic Wood Stove Inserts:

• DO NOT burn freshly cut green wood, or kiln- or oven-dried
  lumber.

The high moisture content of fresh wood hinders
hot, clean burning. Kiln- or oven-dried lumber vaporizes
too fast, leading to excessive pollution and creosote
buildup, with its associated fire hazard.

• DO NOT let the fire smolder at low heat.

Hot fires (i.e., temperatures of 1000 to 1200F)
are required to maintain secondary combustion and burn the
pollutants in the smoke. Cool fires lead to more creosote
buildup in your flue, requiring more frequent cleaning and
creating a fire hazard.

• DO NOT burn trash, treated wood, particle board, plywood,
  or other fuels (such as coal, kerosene, or lighter fluid)
  unless they are listed on your stove’s permanent label.

Trash produces fly ash. Treated woods, particle
board, and plywood contain chemicals that, when burned and
inhaled, are hazardous. Burning other fuels may overheat
and damage your stove.

In case you missed it, you can go here to read about Installing Non-catalytic Wood Stove Inserts.

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Improper installation of wood stove inserts can result in a house fire and cause greater pollution. If a stove isn’t installed properly, it can also affect the draft of the stove (i.e., ability to draw combustion air and expel
exhaust).

Proper draft is critical to reducing pollution and maintaining high efficiency.

Before having your wood stove installed, be sure to check with local authorities regarding building codes and permits, and notify your fire insurance company.

The following tips discuss the importance of proper installation.

What You Should DO to ensure proper installation of your wood stove inserts:

• DO have your wood stove inserts professionally installed by a certified installer.

A certified installer can determine the proper
draft for your stove, make sure all the seals are tight,
and ensure that your stove is installed with all safety
measures in mind.

• DO consult a certified installer about the need for a flue liner in your masonry chimney.

Lining the chimney can help maintain proper draft
and prevent icing, which can block your chimney.

• DO use the manufacturer’s recommended flue diameter.

An improperly sized flue will not provide the
draft needed to operate the stove. Also, smoke may leak
into your house through the air inlets without proper
draft.

• DO make certain that all seals connecting the stove to the flue, and within the flue, are as tight as possible.

Tight seals will prevent smoke from leaking into
your house and contribute to good draft.

by Karen Duke

If It’s Time to Make a Change, Consider These Helpful Tips

There may be several reasons to tear out and replace an existing prefabricated fireplace. It may be:

Damaged from fire, water or deterioration

It no longer suits the design of the home or the lifestyle of your family

A more energy efficient unit is needed

A conversion to gas is desirable

Many of the prefabricated metal woodburning fireplaces that were so popular in the 1970’s and 1980’s have outlived their warranties and their usefulness. Chimney sweeps often refer to these units as “temporary” fireplaces. These fireplaces can suffer from many problems that mean extra care should be involved in annual service. They should be checked for:

Proper clearances to adjacent combustibles. Improperly installed or connected pipe or pipe that’s damaged or deteriorated. Damaged refractory (the “brick” style walls) which can compromise their ability to insulate adjacent combustible walls behind & beside the fireplace. Damaged chimney caps Improperly installed flashings

Prefabricated woodburning fireplaces should never be used to house a woodburning stove or fireplace insert. They should not be used to install open gas fires such as gas logs unless a knockout plate is present, indicating the unit is approved for gas logs. VENT FREE LOGS SHOULD NEVER BE INSTALLED IN A PREFAB FIREPLACE and used with the damper shut. The unit was designed for use with an open damper and vent-free logs may transfer too much heat to adjacent combustibles.

The very first step in undertaking a prefabricated fireplace replacement is thorough planning.

Will the old unit be removed through the rear of the chase (the framed opening that contains it) or through the front? Removal from the rear may mean removing siding, sheetrock, framing or even brick or stone. A means of repairing or replacing these materials must be considered. Removal from the front may mean removal of facing materials such as brick, stone, marble, slate, tile, etc. plus removal of the mantel.

Sometimes removal of the hearth will be required. Reframing the opening may mean new framing materials, sheetrock, etc. For the easiest job, find a replacement model whose dimensions are as close as possible to the size of the old fireplace, or slightly smaller. This will require much less work and construction materials.

Will the new model burn wood or gas? Will it be purely decorative, or would you prefer a high-efficiency wood or gas unit that produces heat from the fuel consumed?

If the new unit has a blower, plan for an electrician to run wiring if needed.

If installing a gas model then planning for installation of the gas lines will be needed and should ideally be done between the time the old unit is removed and when the new one is installed, and allow time for building inspections that may include structural, mechanical and gas. Changes to the roof or chase top will likely be needed.

Plan to include a new flashing in the job that will accommodate the smaller sized chimney or vent pipes used for today’s new model fireplaces. The new unit might best be installed so that it actually does not vent through the same hole any more.

Will you reuse your old mantel? Will you reuse your old facing materials? You may like to take this opportunity to replace outdated design elements with a look that better suits your tastes. There will never be a better time than now to design your new hearth! Look through home decorating magazines to find some designs that you like, and we’ll be happy to help with ideas if you like and to determine what it takes to make your dream fireplace into a reality!

Although this is not a small project, for most homes the job can be done in one to 3 days. Allow extra time, of course, if your new fireplace will require drastic changes such as ceramic tile or cultured stone. Even so, a week is usually the longest it would take for a complete replacement and redesign.

Karen Duke is a fireplace, chimney and hearth industry expert of over 25 years in both the retail and service sectors. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and has numerous hearth industry certifications. She is the founder and webmaster of www.TheFireplaceChannel.com and she is the co-founder and webmaster of www.TheVictorianFireplace.com , which is one of the largest online fireplace retailers in the world.

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For all the wood stove owners and soon-to-be-owners of wood stove inserts out there, what do you think of this?

Hampstead, Canada has passed a by-law that bans all wood-burning appliances.

As reported by the West Island Chronicle:

“Throwing a few logs onto the fire to ward off the chills, or boosting a home’s market value by saying it has a fireplace, could soon be memories in the Town of Hampstead, where a bylaw cracking down on wood-burning has just been passed.

By-law No. 729-2, dealing with construction and plumbing, as well as wood-burning appliances, states that “no person shall install a wood burning appliance, in which wood or solid fuel is burned and which discharges combustion products to the air, in or about any residential property.”

Responding to a resident’s questions about the ban during last week’s town council meeting, Mayor Bill Steinberg said the purpose was ‘to get people not to use their fireplaces on days when there’s a lot of smog … A lot of people are using it when there’s a lot of smog. It’s a health hazard for old people, young people, people who have respiratory diseases.’”

What do you think of this? Do you think a town council should use it’s authority to ban wood stove inserts and all other wood-burning appliances? With the price of fuel so high, what would you do if your town implemented such a ban?

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What is the Difference Between Non-catalytic and Catalytic Wood Stove Inserts?

When you begin to shop for one of the wood stove inserts, you will find that you can choose between  a catalytic or non-catalytic burner.  Both types are certified according to the EPA’s standards.  And both types burn more efficiently than the older models.  But, there are differences.

Cross section of a non-catalytic stove, showing combustion air/exhaust flow patterns, large baffle and high level combustion air supply.

Cross section of a catalytic stove, showing combustion air/exhaust flow patterns, the catalytic element, and the bypass damper.

Non-Catalytic Combustion Design in Wood Stove Inserts

Non-catalytic wood stove inserts have three characteristics that create the conditions necessary  for complete combustion.  Their features include:

Firebox insulation or lining that keeps temperatures high
A large baffle that produces a longer, hotter gas flow path by deflecting gases back into the flames so that they burn more completely
Preheated combustion air or heated secondary air supplies introduced through small holes above the fuel in the firebox.  This ensures that enough oxygen is present and the temperature remains high

Catalytic Combustion Design in Wood Stove Inserts

In catalytic combustion the smoke exhaust is passed through a coated ceramic honeycomb inside the stove where the smoke gases and particles ignite and burn.  Catalytic stoves are capable of producing a long, even heat output.

The catalytic stoves have a lever operated catalyst bypass damper, which is opened for starting and reloading.

Note:  A  catalyst is a substance that affects every action without being consumed in the process.  In wood burning stoves, exhaust gases can be routed through a catalytic combustor - a ceramic honeycomb coated with a metal such as platinum or palladium.  Smoke gases and particles pass through the combustor and ignite at a much lower temperature (250 degrees C) then they would without the combustor (500 degrees C).  The result is that harmful substances are more completely burned.  The fuel produces more heat through an extended clean burn.  However, catalyst can deteriorate over time and must be replaced.

Catalytic stoves will create more heat that is a long, even heat output.

Disadvantages to choosing the catalytic stove include the initial financial outlay.  Catalytic burners are more expensive.  You also must have more technical knowledge to operate this stove.  Another disadvantage of the catalytic burner is that the honeycomb will degrade over time and must be replaced.  But, if used properly, the catalyst can last for more than six years.

The catalyst could bread down in as little as two years if:

• The stove is over fired
• Garbage is burned in the firebox
• The stove is not cleaned on a regular basis

Overall, the non-catalytic burner will provide a brighter, more attractive fire.  You will also have to perform less maintenance and less technical knowledge is required.

Here is a good example of a non-catalytic burner.

This is the EPA approved Napolean Deluxe  Wood Burning Fireplace Insert - EPI-1402

This is what Bud from SE Pennsylvania has to say about this model:

This is the best money I ever spent. I work for an oil refinery and new the heating oil prices would be high this year. I have alot of trees on my property so wood is free. A couple of small logs and I get heat for hours. Load it up and it burns all night, 9 to 10 hours. The dual fans are quiet and installation was easy.

And from Jenn in MI:

We have a very large living room that was always cold with the use of a grate heater, and now with the insert the room is very warm. We have even turned off our furnace and have been able to circulate the heat throughout the house, to cut down on the heat bill. I would highly recommend this item!

Read the rest

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Cleaner Burning Wood Stove Inserts and Fireplaces

The conventional masonry and factory-built fireplaces do not produce heat efficiently.  Much of the natural resource being used for energy is wasted. Conventional fireplaces also create smoke – indoors and outdoors.  Indoors, this is a health risk for you and your family.  Outdoors, it is health risk to everyone, including your neighbors.  For this reason, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that you install one of the  EPA certified wood stove inserts, fireplace inserts, or pellet stove.

The internal design of wood stove inserts has completely changed since the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued the standards of performance for new wood stoves in 1988.  The smoke emission limit for wood stoves is set at 7.5 grams of smoke per hour for non catalytic stoves and 4.1 grams per hour for catalytic stoves.  Certified stoves can reduce smoke emissions by as much as 90% compared to conventional stoves, and are much more efficient.

The EPA’s certified emission rate is standard and can be compared from one model to the next.  Manufacturers of wood stove inserts and wood stoves have improved their combustion technologies.  Some of the newer stoves have emissions as low as one to four grams per hour.

The certified stoves include design features that promote secondary combustion.  Most of the features are aimed at burning off the dangerous chemicals and toxic substances before they leave the firebox.  This is achieved when:

• The fire has an adequate oxygen supply
• The gases coming off the fire are at high temperature and are mixed with preheated air, oxygen
• The gases have enough time to burn before they cool down.

Wood stove inserts can use non-catalytic or catalytic combustion.

If you still use one of the wood stoves that is more than seven years old, the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) recommends you replace that stove with one of the newer advanced combustion wood stove inserts.

Technorati Tags: design features, EPA, wood stove inserts

EPA recommends that certified wood stove inserts or fireplaces insert be professionally installed by a

Certified stoves are 50% more energy efficient than non-certified stoves

certified technician to insure its safety and proper performance. The safety of your home and family depends on fully understanding and carrying out the critical manufacturer and building code requirements that include:

• Proper clearances between the stove and venting system and combustible materials.
• Proper protection of combustible floors.
• Proper assembly of appliance and venting components.

Errors in installation (by a non-professional) may not be visible, and problems may not be apparent for a considerable length of time—and then only by a resulting home fire.
Furthermore, experienced professionals can properly size and place equipment for best heat distribution. The venting system (or chimney), in particular, is a critical area that requires professional involvement. This is the “engine” that drives the whole burning process—or causes it to perform poorly or fail. Professional decisions about the venting system to ensure adequate draft include:

• Proper sizing (particularly avoiding oversized flues).
• Proper height (often taller than minimum code requirements).
• Proper location (interior of the house when possible) or protection from extreme cold.
• Proper configuration (avoiding excessive horizontal runs and system turns in direction).

An EPA certified wood burning stove or fireplace insert that is sized and placed properly with a venting system that delivers adequate draft will reduce wood consumption, produce more usable heat, and reduce maintenance from inefficient fires.
One of the best ways to find competent installation professionals is to check their credentials. A source for hearth system planners and installers is the National Fireplace Institute® (NFI). NFI is a non-profit certification agency that conducts nationwide education and testing of hearth professionals. To learn more about NFI and to locate an NFI Wood Burning Specialist, visit The National Fireplace Institute.

Technorati Tags: efficiency, Installation, wood stove inserts